Where do you go when you’re in Krakow?
Kino Mikro: plays international, independent and forgotten films
Galleria Plakatu (Poster Gallery): the poster is the quintessential Polish art form. My favorite artist is Gorowski; my brother’s is Stasys. Unfortunately, he can’t collect any more because they are scaring the children.
Golebia 3 (Pigeon 3 Café): This place has been magic for my writing. Four years ago, I was sitting there, trying to start a new novel set in Chicago, when all of a sudden the story of the Pigeon came to me. I banged out what became the first three chapters in an afternoon.
Nowa Prowincja: Another great cafe; in the summer, you can recognize it by the Polish school desks outside.
Bunkier: A modern art gallery inside, a cafe outside with the intimacy of a living room under a roof that, I guess, would be bunker-like if it weren’t made of glass.
Chimera: If you’re in Poland, wondering where all the vegetables went, they’re here. There is a Chimera restaurant next door, but I prefer the salad bar under the arch. After struggling with Polish for a few days, you can go here and be rewarded for all your pointing with great food and a beautiful, ivy-lidded courtyard.
And of course, you can’t go to Poland without eating in a ”bar mleczny” (milk bar). These are the formerly subsidized lunch places where you can get your fill of pierogi and kotlet schabowy. I used to go to Bar Zak a lot (pronounced “Bar Jaques”) on Ulica Krolewska in Krakow, but there is a good one right in the center on Grodzka. No link because, of course, if they have a web site, it’s not a real bar mleczny.
